Step 7 : Install the CPU :
Installing the CPU is a pretty straight-forward process. The real risk is to the CPU. Doing this step too fast or carelessly can result in damage to the processor. Therefore, don't get nervous. It is an easy step, but do it with care.

There are two common interfaces for CPU's, Socket 7 and Slot 1. Socket 7 is the most commonly used. All Pentiums use it, along with all Cyrix and AMD chips. Slot 1 is the single Edge Contact (SEC) interface used by the Pentium II processor. Therefore, depending on the processor you will be using, the CPU installation will be different. Therefore, this step will be divided into two sections.

<Socket 7 >: Most systems make use of the zero-insertion force (ZIF) socket. Therefore, this procedure is most relevant with that setup.

To install a Socket 7 chip, follow this procedure:

1) Orient The Chip. This involves locating Pin 1 on both the chip and the socket. This is easy to do. The chip is always marked at Pin 1. The mark may be a little dot on one corner, a slightly notched corner, or a mark at one of the pins under the chip. On the socket, there is usually a notch on one corner, or a big "1". These corners will be matched up for correct installation. Notice how the corner of the CPU is notched and dotted, and that there is an arrow on the motherboard pointing to that particular corner of the socket.

2) Open ZIF Socket. This is done by grabbing the lever on one side of the socket and opening it. Pull the lever from the closed, level position, to the open, vertical position. You may need to pull the lever out a bit before it will open. Do this slowly and don't force it. You don't want to break the socket. On the way up, you may experience a little more force. This is normal. The top part of the ZIF socket will slide over a bit.

3) Insert Processor. Bearing in mind the orientation determined in Step 1, insert the chip into the socket. With a ZIF socket, the chip should install very easily. It should almost fall into the socket with all pins lining up. If not, the socket is probably not open all the way. If you do not have a ZIF socket , you need to exercise extreme care. Lay the chip on the socket. Make sure all pins line up. Then, slowly push the chip into the socket. Use your thumb and push on one side of the chip until it starts to go in. Then proceed to another side and repeat. Do this around the chip several times until it is completely installed.

4) When done, there should be basically no gap between the bottom of the processor and the socket.

5) Close ZIF Socket. Just close the lever. You will probably feel some resistance. This is normal and it should close anyway. If you really need to lean on it, though, check to be sure the chip is installed correctly. When down, make sure the lever snaps into place. You're done.

<Slot 1>:
As said before, only Pentium II's and the Celeron processor use Slot 1. The slot is basically like a long PCI slot, although it is not white. It runs parallel to the SDRAM slots. On each of the four corners of the slot will be a receptor for a screw. Now that we have it spotted, let's install the chip.

1) Install the Pentium II Rack. Basically, this rack serves as a guide-rail and support for the CPU to rest in. Since the Pentium II processor sticks up high off the board and is rather slim, it would simply be too loose in the slot without the rails. The rails usually come with the motherboard. They will be about the height of the processor and have two built-in screws on one end. Position a rail on each end of the Slot. Use a screw to tighten it into place onto the motherboard receptors. Do this for each side of the Slot. When done, you should have one rail on each end of the slot.

2) Install the Cooler onto the Processor. It is much easier to do this, usually, before you push the chip into its slot. All coolers are a little different in the way they attach to the CPU, but most use the little holes on the metal side of the processor to lock into place. With some coolers, you will need to use a support to keep it off the motherboard. This support comes with the rack setup, and you only use it when needed.

3) Insert the Processor. It is time to insert the Pentium II processor into the Slot. The processor has one card-like edge at the bottom of the black cartridge. this edge is keyed so that it can only insert into the slot the correct way. So, push the processor into the guide rails and down all the way to the surface of the slot. Make sure the cooler(or fan) is facing the side near the motherboard's chipset. When you get to the bottom, you will feel some resistance. This is normal. work the processor in until the little levers at the top of the guide rails click into place, locking the chip in.

Step 8 : Install the Heat sink
1) Attach the fan to the heat sink. This step is often already done for you, but if not, you must do it yourself. This is done using the four screws that came with the CPU fan.

2) Apply the Heat Sink Compound. Most setups use heat sink compound. Apply just enough to cover the surface of the chip. If you have portions of the chip higher than others, apply compound only to the raised areas. The layer should be thin. More won't hurt anything, but will be a mess when you press the heat sink down. On some setups, you can skip heat sink compound. Instead, some clips hold the heat sink down. While, in some cases you can skip heat sink compound, keep in mind that even this setup can benefit from the increased contact provided by heat sink compound. More on this next step.

3) Attach The Heat Sink. Place the heat sink squarely on top of the processor, pressing down lightly. Most newer heat sinks use a set of clips on each side to fasten itself down. These clips attach to a pair of tabs on each side of the socket. It will probably take a little bit of force to bend the clip down over the tab. Other heat sinks wrap around the processor, then just sit on top, the compound being the only real attachment.

4) Double-Check Contact. You need to make sure all areas of the chip are in contact with the heat sink. The best way to do this is to temporarily remove the heat sink again and see if there are any areas of compound that remain smooth because it didn't touch the chip. Apply a little more compound to any such areas, then refasten the heat sink. Repeat this until all areas are in contact with the processor.

Step 9 : Install Memory
1) Decide which slots you are going to use and orient the SIMM over it. The SIMM is keyed so that it will only go in the right way. Study the SIMM and you will see what I mean, and obviously, if it won't work, turn it around.

2) Install the Module. With SIMMs, you need to stick it in at an angle, about 45 degrees. With DIMMs, they go straight in.

3) Lock the module in place. Obviously, SIMMs don't sit in the motherboard at a 45 degree angle. Rotate it to the vertical position. This may require a bit of muscle, but do not force it. If it is too hard, it is probably installed backwards. When it is vertical, you should see the little plastic or metal clips snap into place, thereby holding the SIMM in place. With DIMMs, all you have to do it close the levers on either side of the DIMM. If they do not close, it is because the DIMM is not inserted all the way into the slot.

4) Done. Now just repeat these steps for each of your memory modules.


Step 10 : Install the Motherboard If you purchased bare bone units, Motherboard should be pre-installed. I usually install the Motherboard at the last for extra care for Motherboard.

1) Once the case is positioned correctly for work, locate the holes on the motherboard and the holes on the case. You might want to hold the board just above the case motherboard plate and see which holes on the case line up with holes on the motherboard.

2) Now gather your spacers, pictured to the right. Screw them in to the holes in the case or mounting plate that line up with holes on the motherboard. You can tighten them with a 3/16" nut driver.

3) For the holes on the motherboard that line up with an eyelet hole on the case (a hole that is very long so that you can slide things in it), install a plastic stand-off on the motherboard. The stand-off should poke through the motherboard and expand to keep them in place. The little disk on the other end of the stand-off will later be used to slide into the eyelet holes. If your case does not provide eyelet holes, do not worry about this step. Some cases use only the metal spacer screws to hold the motherboard.

4) Now slide the board into the case. Make sure it sits on the spacers and that all the spacers line up with an available hole on the motherboard. If you have any stand-off installed, make sure the little disks on them are placed into the wide end of the eyelet hole, then slide over to the narrow part, thus locking them in. Once the stand-off are locked in, all spacers should line up. If you have a case with a detachable motherboard mounting plate, simply place the board over the previously placed spacer screws on the plate, and make sure they all line up with holes through the motherboard.

5) Inspect the screws you will use to tighten the board down. If the head of the screws are too wide, and you think they might contact any circuitry on the motherboard, place a plastic washer over each hole.

6) Tighten the board down. Install the screws into each of the spacers underneath, through the board and the washers if you used them. Tighten them down by hand first, then finish them with a screwdriver. Make sure you do not tighten them too much. You don't want to crack your board. Just make them snug so that the board doesn't wiggle around in the case.

7) Install motherboard mounting panel if your case uses one. This usually involves inserting a rail on the bottom end of the plate into a tab or guide on the case. Then, like a hinge, raise the top until the plate is vertical with the board inside the case. This removable plate is then closed by locking in a spring loaded handle, or simply screwing it in. On other cases, the plate may slide in a different way, then get screwed into place. These plates are then easily removed later if you ever need to remove the motherboard.

8) Double Check your work. Check to be sure that the back of the motherboard is not touching any part of the case or mounting plate. Make sure the slots and connectors line up with the holes on the back of the case. And definitely be sure that the board is rigid and tight. If you press down on the board at any point, it should not bend